The Brown Paper Bag Hat

By Auburncraft Design

Don’t you just love purple! I do!!!

Firstly, you may be wondering why I named this ‘The Paper Bag Hat’.  I did so due to the way I have chosen to close the top of the hat.  It reminded me of the old-fashioned brown paper bags from my days working in a local Supermarket. 

I started as a Checkout Chick in my teens and the registers were all push button (but not in the digital sense).  I would have to ask each customer if they would like a box, or a bag for their purchases.  If they wanted a bag I would grab one from the pile of neatly stacked brown paper bags and open it up.  The bags had a square bottom, and the sides had a concertina fold.  So totally different from the tons of plastic bags that are in supermarket now. Know doubt many people over the years would also love me to put a paper bag over my head so now I can!

Materials: (click on any of the yarn names to source them)

1 x Stylecraft special dk Mocha. Colour 1. (C1)

1 x Stylecraft special dk Cream. Colour 2 (C2)

1 x Stylecraft special dk Parma violet. Colour 3 (C3)

1 x Ice Magic Light White, Lilac, Brown. Colour 4 (C4) or

Alternate yarn instead of Ice Magic.  Stylecraft Life Changes

USA Terms used

Hook 4mm G

Darning Needle

Scissors

Stitch Markers

Notes: DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR AND READ THE NOTES

Once you have your chains to start done, you can place them around the head you are making the hat for and adjust if you think it will not be the right size.   The starting chains must be dividable by 3 so the pattern will work. 

It is a good idea to sew the ends in as you go and to either use a stitch marker or count your stitches so you don’t lose one of them as they are slippery little suckers and tend to hide.

Ch1 stitch to begin rounds does not count as a stitch.

If you find it too confusing on the rows that you work in the round, you can just slip stitch each round closed.  Doing the rows in the round as stated in the pattern will give a better look visually to the larger sections of sc.

Treble stitches on Round 31 which you place into the front loops you made on Round 28 count as a st.   Don’t make Treble stitches too tight.

Finished Circumference: Adult Small 20 ½’ 52cm, Medium 22’ 56cm, Large 24’ 61cm

Gauge: 24 rows to 10cm . 17 stitches to 10cm

Difficulty Level Intermediate

Abbreviations.

Ch. Chain

Sl St. Slip Stitch.

St. Stitch

Sts. Stitches

Bl- Back Loop

Scbl.  Single Crochet Back Loop Only.

Notes: DO YOURSELF A FAVOUR AND READ THE NOTES

Once you have your chains to start done, you can place them around the head you are making the hat for and adjust if you think it will not be the right size.   The starting chains must be dividable by 3 so the pattern will work. 

It is a good idea to sew the ends in as you go and to either use a stitch marker or count your stitches so you don’t lose one of them as they are slippery little suckers and tend to hide.

Ch1 stitch to begin rounds does not count as a stitch.

If you find it too confusing on the rows that you work in the round, you can just slip stitch each round closed.  Doing the rows in the round as stated in the pattern will give a better look visually to the larger sections of sc.

Treble stitches on Round 31 which you place into the front loops you made on Round 28 count as a st.   Don’t make Treble stitches too tight.

Hat

With C1.  Ch 75 (81, 87) Do not twist Chain.  Slst to first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: (Right Side): Ch1. Sc in same Ch as joining and in each Ch around. Slst into back loop of first sc. Turn. – 75(81, 87) sts.

Rnd 2: Ch1. Bl only, Sc in each st around. Slst to join.  Turn. Fasten off and cut yarn.

Rnd 3: Attach C4 in same st as join. Ch1. Bl only, Sc in each st around. Slst to join. Turn.

Rnd 4: Bl only. Sc in each st around. Slst to join. Turn. Fasten off and cut yarn.

Back or hat.

Rnds 5-6: With C3, repeat Rnds 3-4.

Rnds7-8: With C4, repeat Rnds 3-4.

 Rnds 9-10: With C2, repeat Rnds 3-4,

Rnds 11-12 With C4, repeat Rnds 3-4

Rnds 13-14 With C3, repeat Rnds 3-4

Rnds 15-16 With C4, repeat Rnds 3-4

Rnds 17-18 With C1. Repeat Rnds 3-4

Rnd 19:  With C4. Sc Bl only  into each Sc around.  Do not cut or turn.

Rnd 20: Continue working in the round and use a marker to show where each row starts.  Shift the marker after each round to the next row.  Sc into both loops.

Rnds 21-22-23-24-25-26-. Repeat Rnd 20

Rnd 27:  Sc into each St around. Close round with Slst.

Rnd 28: Ch1. * Scbl1, sc2*   Repeat from *to * around. Close round with a Slst.  Insert stitch marker 75(81, 87) sts.

Rnd 29:  Ch1. Sc around.  Close round with a Slst.

Rnd 30.  Repeat round 29. Do not cut yarn

Rnd 31. Change to C3. Ch1, Sc1 into same st. Tr2tg the first part of this will go into the loop in Rnd 28 that has the stitch marker in it.  The second part into the next free loop.  This counts as one st on row 31 (or the row you are working on).  Sc2.  *Tr2tg first part into same st as before and second part into the next free loop, sc2*  Repeat from *  to * around. Sc1. Close round with a Slst. Cut yarn. 25 (27,29) v’s

Rnd 32, 33, 34:  Continue with C4. Ch 1.  Sc in all stitches around.  Do not close round, continue onto the next round with sc. (this round will work in a spiral. 75(81, 87) sts. Keep using a st marker to mark the start of each round.

Rnd 35:  Sc around. Close this round with a Slst at Stitch marker point.

Rnd 36: Repeat row 28

Rnds 37-38: Repeat row 29

Rnd 39:  Using C2. Repeat row 31

Rnds 40-41-42: Continue with C4. Ch 1.  Sc in all stitches around.  Do not close round, (this round will be worked in a spiral). Continue onto the next round with Sc .75(81, 87) sts. Place a St marker at the end of the round.

Rnd 43:  Continue with Sc around.  Close this round with  Slst at St marker.

Rnd 44: Repeat row 28

Rnds 45-46 :Repeat row 29

Rnd 47: Using C1 Repeat row 31

Rnd 48-49-50-51.  Continue with C4. Ch1.  Sc in all stitches around.  Do not close round, continue onto the next round with Sc. 75(81, 87) sts.  Place a St marker to show the end of each round. Fasten off and cut yarn.

Rnd 52-53-54:  Attach C1. Sc in all stitches around.  Do not close round, continue onto the next round with sc. Place a St marker to show the end of each round.  Fasten off and cut yarn. 75(81, 87) sts.

Closing the top of the Hat:

Step One: Lay the hat flat  and neatly folded into half.  Measure in 3.5 “(3.”, 3.9’”inches) 9 (10, 10) cm.

Step one.

 

Step Two:

Tuck the measured section in on itself or folded in on itself. 

Step two.

Step Three:

With your darning needle and C1.  Use tacking stitches to hold the fold in place for when you crochet around it.

Step three.

Step Four:

Repeat the last three steps on the other side.

Step Five:

Starting at a fold edge, attach yarn and slip stitch the two layers of the fold together.  Slst across the middle top of the hat and onto the left-hand fold edge.  Fasten off and cut.

Step five.

Step Six:

Done!!!

You will now have two folded edges remaining to do.  Attach the yarn at one of them and Slst across to close.  Fasten off and cut.  Attach yarn at other fold edge, sl st across to close.

Sew in any ends.

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Now for the Boring Stuff!!!

Many hours of work has gone into the designing and producing of this pattern, You are purchasing/downloading this pattern for personal use only. Please do not copy, rewrite, or redistribute this pattern as your own or otherwise. Please do not resell my patterns.

You are welcome to sell items made from this pattern, but please credit me as the designer and add a link to purchase my pattern in your sale.

Please note my patterns and my images are copyright protected, please do not use my images to sell your items.

This pattern has been tested by a large group of pattern testers, with varying abilities in crochet.

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